it was bound to happen…

Two days ago was our ride to Jiri, which we took in a huge van with our driver, our Sherpa guide, Chitra, our porter, Bul Bahadur, and, for a few hours, three Nepali women. The road winds back and forth and was, at certain, rare-ish unpaved times, outrageously bumpy. Carsickness threatened for the first hour or two but passed, and I found myself again entranced by the small villages we passed, in the huge valleys with farmlands like stairsteps. It was still the holiday, so everyone was dressed up and sitting by the road, and many dogs and cows had marigolds around their necks and were dotted with red paint.

There were so many animals roaming in and around the road: goats, chickens, dogs, pigs, and water buffalo (which look just like cows except for their glossy black nearly hairless skin, which must be kept wet, “like a hippopotamus”, says Poppi. Also, they aren’t sacred  and are, therefore, edible).

I must say that the driving which I considered so dangerous at first now rarely concerns me, and even makes sense. Horns are used for two reasons only: 1) to alert everyone that you are coming (and suggest that they move out of the way) or 2) to let someone know you intend on passing them. On narrow (just about wide enough for one car) roads, this is a very efficient system.

On the way up, I used the two worst bathrooms of my life. Any concrete detail describing them would be TMI, so I’ll leave it at: I now more than ever understand the Nepali’s foot aversion (after all, some don’t have shoes…).

Upon our arrival in Jiri we were greeted by adorable children who wanted nothing more from us than our names and where we’re from. After this exchange, they then scampered off with a charming “BYE!!”.

Now all of this so far is good, but that night (our first in Jiri) I became the most sick I’ve ever been, which is why we’ve been stuck in Jiri the past two days. I’ll try not to get too detailed, but the first night was hell. My body completely emptied itself, and I could not keep anything down. It was likely food poisoning from my chicken curry dinner, although other suspects include tainted bottled mineral water and those unsanitary bathrooms I avoided describing earlier. Whatever it is, I’m off chicken now, that’s for sure.

I slept most of the day yesterday, sometimes looking out my window at the family working on their little farm. Sleep has never been easier for me…I went to bed at 4pm last night!

Fortunately, I’m feeling much better today. I’m on antibiotics now, and I’ve been pounding the water and electrolytes. I can now eat and move around–a huge improvement.

The daughter of the hotel owners (who we originally deemed as surly) came to check on me today–turns out she’s very friendly and a nurse in Kathmandu (likely visiting home for the holiday)!  She gave us advice and support, very sweet.

I’m feeling so much better, and I’m very enthusiastic about trekking tomorrow (it’ll be a short, easy day too). Never thought we’d get internet here (although getting this posted is a total gamble, it disconnects at random intervals, and is the loathed dial up)–it was supposed to be a 9 day (or so) trek before Lukla or Namche Bazaar, the only places we know to have internet.

No need to worry–I’m so much better. Just wanted to explain our two day delay.

Miss you all!